Stargazing would ensue for the whole night till dawn. This being the final night, few were vowing to stay awake till dawn. They brought out the guitar and were soon on karaoke-high. Others were playing cards by the moonlight. As always, a dose of ghost stories too.. (Apparently, Rooms 13, 14, 15, 16.. have had night visitations a-knocking on their doors.) Soon, a set of mind-games kept everyone awake and guessing. By 4am, only a handful of us were left on the jetty: 3-5 September 2001 (Tioman, Malaysia)
1 September 2001, Saturday. It had been one of those *happening* weekends starting Saturday 01 September. A couple of us pitched out in Pasir Ris park in the full moon, scanning the early evening skies with a C 8. It was a good night. Mars was hovering between the tip of Sagittarius and the tail of Scorpius. We logged in a few of the regular clusters and binary stars despite the full moonlight. (These same clusters would be seen again later.) This mixed with a lot of food and chatter and impromptu games.
We walked a good stretch of Pasir Ris, exploring the nearby night scene at the Fisherman's Village. We later made our way to a nearby 7-Eleven for a 3am food party. A couple of us eventually ended up in another recreational park. The morning air was crisp. Saturn and Jupiter had long risen with Aldebaran & the Hyades cluster in Taurus. Orion was stirring in the distance as the world was waking up to their morning walks around this little park. Sirius was burning somewhere behind the buildings which obstructed the city horizon. By some quirk of imagination, I designed a new constellation using Orion as the body and wings of a damselfly with its tail lit by Sirius.
We watched as Castor & Pollux in Gemini rose over the nearby high-rise buildings. One by one, the sleepy windows of the apartments flickered on to a lazy Sunday dawn. MacDonald's for breakfast, (this group didn't sleep a wink) and a round of morning jokes from Jermyn.
2 September 2001, Sunday. A busy day indeed. 4 hours later, I was out at East Coast canoeing along the eastern shore lines with my cousin, Mary-Anne. The sun on our backs. The waters look so dull; Dead organic matter completed the seascape. Would Tioman island be any better? I'd find out for myself in 24 hours anyway. I skimmed off the thought and set out on a speed chase after Mary-Anne.
Dinner, home, there was some NUS pageant /retro party at Grease that would've been fun, but I ain't even packed yet.
Fish & Star-Chips (Tioman, Malaysia)
DAY 1 - 03 September, Monday.
5.30am.. I'd barely managed another 3 hours of sleep. I awoke to a shrieking clock that would've gotten the boot and hammer from me had it not belonged to my brother. I've never had a healthy relationship with shrill alarm clocks. I had to assemble at NTU in 2 hours. For the first time since primary school days, my brother and I sat down to a real breakfast. Himself barely clearing 2 hours of sleep after the party at Grease. His friend won the pageant, I heard. :)
7.30am.. Arrived at the Chinese Heritage Centre carpark. The handful who had already arrived didn't look like they amounted to 88 participants. I'd joined the trip knowing only one person: Ban Chon. My brother had this incredulous look on his face when he heard my reply to his question of where-are-your-friends.
We settled down by the edge of the road. Both of us idly scanning the carpark as more people trickled in. Morning faces in want of sleep but negated by the thrill of an impending trip. Everyone was in a chatty mood.. Getting to know people will have to wait, I need sleep..
(Note: Then-strangers, now-friends.. here are my accounts of the who, when, where.. enjoy. :)
(Dave & Ricky) To our left were two guys with tripods and camera bags. Manfotto, I noted. Nikon, as one of them (Rick) held one lens to the light. Photographers on the prowl. Cool. They should be having fun. The Manfotto tripod design was so visually captivating to me. Somehow, I knew I was gonna encounter these guys soon enough.
My brother elbowed my attention to the girl sitting to my right. "Oy. Talk to her leh." Oh.. ok.. ;) "Harlow, are you here by yourself?" "No. I'm waiting for two other friends." "Ok, I'm Lin." "Bernardee." Shook hands. "Bernadee, my brother, Gin. Gin, Bernadee." "Hi." "Hello." I should choke on my own mischief. (Now you know, Bernadee.. ;) Bernadee's friends arrived, Poh Ling (I'd heard Pauline at first) and Huishan. We got to a little chatter and I accepted their offer to bunk in with them.
More people arrived, together with Ban Chon, at which point my brother left for home. The committee bunch, for sure, looking at the amount of things they were carrying. There was a group of girls who looked like they were getting ready for a party night out in Orchard, than island-adventuring. But hey, if they can tackle this trip in platform shoes, that's remarkable enough.
Boarded the bus by 8.45am.. for a moment it felt strange, then I realised why. Everyone around me was talking in Mandarin.. not the way Singaporeans spoke it, but actual Chinese Mandarin (non-Taiwan version). That was when I figured half the bus were Chinese nationals. This should be interesting. We hit the customs by 9.30am, possibly clearing both sides by 10.30am. There was some delay. Apparently one of the participants had not cleared her visa, and was to be deported back to Singapore.
Bus transfer. Roll-call. We were on our way by 11am. I'd pretty much drifted to minimum consciousness by the time I found a seat on the new bus. I didn't even hear the roll-call by this nice chap (Willie) who seemed to have spent the past 3 hours running around looking for participants. Once the bus got on its way, the Zzzs fell in. When next I awoke, we had stopped for a break and were an hour away from Mersing. Roll-call again. Zzz. Mersing town. 2pm. Cloudy, a typical signature of all good astro trips here, I recollected.
Lunch break, 20 minutes. I darted down to town to get some provisions. Bad move. Thunderclouds moved in and rain pelted to the ground. I had 5 minutes to make my way back to the group. Heck, it's only water, and I was perfectly soaked upon reaching the group. Oh what joy. Hadn't played in the rain for some time. A change of T-shirts and we were off to the jetty. The rain had ceased to a few drops. Getting onto the boat wasn't too bad. The after-rain-storm-waves were rocking it moderately. Nice comfy boat though.
I made my way up to the second deck and stayed up there for the rest of the 2-hour voyage. The sea was still rather choppy, which was fun by my definition. A few of the girls got seasick though. The waves that crashed against the boat, sent intermittent salty sprays raining onto the second deck. I can't tell if the others are howling in horror or delight, but I was immensely enjoying the sea, sprays et al.. Cool.. :) It was up here that I got to know Helen and Hanting.
The sun was already blazing through a patchy hole in the sky. We saw 3 jellyfish float by as the boat sped on. A sliver fish skimming between air and water in the near distance brought many excited fingers tracing its trejectory. Hanting persistently promising the sea that he would jump right in the moment he hit shore. :)
4.30pm.. Arrival at Tioman, Mukut. The waves were slamming the boat against the concrete steps of the jetty. Crossing over to land is going to require a little help. It was a regular jetty which led right up to the resort.
Roll-call again as we assembled at the main reception-dining area that was wholly constructed out of bamboo that showed part of the clear sea below, peeking through the slits of the bamboo. A utilitarian design since all the food that dropped through fed the fish swimming underneath, yet still in keeping with the character of a rustic sea village. An orange soup bowl was wedged between some rocks below.
Room-assignment; Room 6 with Bernardee, Poh Ling and Huishan. A nice pathway weaved between the ten 2-room chalets on stilts that stood individually amidst the coconut trees and small boulders. Room-check: Air-conditioned, double beds, hot shower (that didn't work), half & full flush toilet system, yet minus toilet paper.. I like it.
6.30pm.. Dinner by Chef Ah Foo (whoever that is..), rice, tom yam soup, steamed fish, vegetables, chicken, tofu.. and our table-mates were: Dave, Ricky, Dexing and Shihao. Introductions and conversation ensued with food. The moon was beginning to rise from the east just behind the jetty.. beautiful..
Dave and Rick finished Round 1 of dinner and scampered off to take in the moonlit scene. Tempted I was to join them yet lazy I also was to return to the room to get my camera. The moon glided higher between the coconut trees. Ok, photo urge.. I got my camera and tripod out.
Briefing on tomorrow's snorkel-trip. Absorbed in my own moonlit world, I barely heeded a single word. Group up, I think they said. Ok, I'm with whichever group that has the extra room: Group C.. the committee group. (The start of a long day of fun.)
9pm.. Stargazing that night (and the night after) was at the jetty which had totally unobstructed viewing on the east-south-west horizons. Behind us, hills rose to a 20-degree view obstruction. Mars, Sagittarius and Scorpius were sinking towards the southwest. Patchy clouds came and went throughout the night. Telescopes ready, off a-hunting we go.
C 5, C 6, C 8, and a couple of binoculars. Here are the starlogs for both nights of observation:
Mars
At 100x, it was little more than a dull orange disc. I wasn't sure if the dust storm had passed. Details are barely hinted at tonight.
Scorpius - 30x
M4 globular cluster: Faintly glowing, possibly dimmed out by the moon but it's there. The C 8 has a better light grasp on it.
M6 Butterfly cluster: As lovely as ever. Though I seem to be visualizing a dragonfly outline. A faintly yellowish star in the group that could only be BM Scorpii.
M7 open cluster: Naked-eye visible. A deformed butterfly pattern then, for I seem to forever have some difficulty distinguishing this from M6. The cluster is more open with 5 more dominant stars in a cross-like pattern.
In the vicinity of h4889, Mu1 & Mu2 Scorpii, a wide double easily separated in the 6x finder.
Travelling down south towards Zeta1 & Zeta2 Scorpii, a small open cluster NGC 6242. Can't really see where the orange colour is purported to be. Scattered stars throughout the eyepiece. A loose grouping, possibly Collinder 316. A nice open cluster NGC 6231, near three beautiful Zeta gems of pale blue, orange and white.
Sagittarius - 30x
M8 Lagoon nebula: A wispy nebula in the 6x finder. At 40x, the cluster of stars showed within. At higher magnification, nebula detail faltered.
The visible milky way was washed out though sweeping along binocularly, the star fields were rich.
Cygnus - 30x
Omicron1, Omicron2 - Contrasting double-double: Near 30 Cygni a pair of light blue, yellow-orange set. At 50x, they looked more like white stars tinged with blue and yellow.. Atmosphere appears fiercely twinkly. Did not manage to split the double's double.
M29 open cluster: A nice asterism of about 8 bright stars. From Gamma Cygni (Sadr) in the direction of Beta Cygni (Albireo). Another rich patch of stars along this line.
NGC 6888 was a small group of scattered stars, no nebulosity seen.
Albireo Beta Cygni: One more blue-gold pair. Much more saturated colours than the earlier pairs.
Lyra - 30x
And what's the night with a donut from M57 - Ring nebula: The C 8 resolves it most elegantly with a circle of smoke at 100x. Maybe I should imagine a dead star in its center, but I couldn't see one.
Taurus - 30x
M45 - Pleiades open cluster: Still an all-time favourite and a crowd-pleaser. These is one stellar group that can never go out of fashion.
Orion - 30x
M42 - Orion nebula: A pretty one that's just as popular. The trapezium of stars were clearly visible.. (oh, wait, I cannot remember if I saw this in Tioman as well but we sure saw it at Pasir Ris..)
Saturn - 30x - 100x
with rings.. :)
The full moon waning, an accompaniment to the night. Crystal waters sparkling under the moonlight.. I could see the pebbles right at the bottom. Moon-gazing was inevitable. The group tried this way and that to get a glimpse of an almost blinding orb. They finally projected the image onto a piece of paper and has a good time clicking film to that.
The first night we packed up at 3am, knowing that we'd have to be up again at 8am to catch a boat out to sea. I wondered what was for breakfast.. "Big breakfast, MacDonald-style.." someone replied. Yeah, rite..
Fish & Star-Chips (Tioman, Malaysia)
DAY 2 - 04 September, Tuesday.
Day 1 didn't feel right for photography, if only because I was trying to figure out how receptive to the camera, the human subjects would be. The moment I got to know them better, the clicking came naturally. :)
8 am. Breakfast, no kidding.. almost Mac.. with toast, egg, jam, butter, sausage, and baked beans.
Bright and sunny would describe the entire day. We checked out our life-jackets and snorkel-gear. Four boats would bring us up north of Tioman to the Marine Park.
The wind on our backs.. also created huge waves which gave some of us huge yelps of sea-coasting fun (and others huge gulps of sea-sickness..).
I'd forgotten how much I miss the sea. It'd been quite a while since I last rode the waves. I stood up on deck, both hands locked on a wooden column in the bow, as huge waves collided head-on with the puny but steadfast boat. It leapt skywards a couple of feet, the momentum carrying all of us along for the ride in the air before it smashed against the watery surface. Everyone was jolted, concerned ones yelling with the roar of the waves for me to stay down. So sweet of them.. :) I complied though it was less fun.
I sighed. A true moment of content and absolute peace despite the oceanic rock and roll. I lay my head down and closed my eyes, destined for a little nap.. which also got a concerned P.K. wondering if I was sea-sick.. *lol!* No, I replied.. I'm gonna fall asleep.. :)
Some of the other guys picked up on the sea-surfing bit, and had their hands locked to the wooden column. It was too crowded up front so I moved to the back, bent on getting some more sleep. I was surprised to discover more people at the stern; Dave and Rick had been quietly enjoying their piece of the boat. Dave's life-jacket sure made for a good pillow. Zzz..
We'd docked at another jetty. I wasn't sure how long it'd been. I remember feeling the sun burn. Berjaya Beach Resort. A wonderful stretch of beach, many tourists. We'd stopped here for an hour of touring, I guess.
I'd parked myself on one of its beach-side lounge chairs. More sighs.. This is *life*.. The wind rustling the leaves of strategically planted coconut trees, the waves lapping up the sands. I wasn't sure where everyone else had headed. I'd lost them after a while. (They had apparently gone swimming a little further up the beach.)
After a bit of lazing, I wandered off and found Bernardee, Huishan and Poh Ling.. rather, they found me. There was a playground I hadn't notice. The lonesome pair Rick and Dave on the swings. They turned around for a photo. Dexing and Shyh Haur appeared from somewhere and took on the see-saw trying to outbalance each other. I saw this other contraption that I could only identify as similar to those wheelbarrels that people make hamsters run on. Not easy stuff, mind you! (Yes, I tried.) I gravitated to the slide where Bernardee and Poh Ling had just finished a round of photos at.
12.45pm.. Regroup. Two photo opportunities caught my eye: by the coastline, and on the jetty. After much dallying, we were *all* finally on the jetty. The boatmen-in-charge had to shoo us off it into our respective boats.
The second leg of the journey towards the Marine Park. We were all ready, I was prepping my goggles with spit.
At the jetty, one of the guides gave a 5-minute crash course on snorkeling. I heard a small part of his lecture in Mandarin, "Keep a serious face.."
Ok, that was all I heard (I did say "a small part") before I headed for the water.. a chorus of laughter from the ones who finished hearing his sentence.
As some of the guys "Jerominoed!!" off the top into the deep end, I chose to use the ladder down. I wouldn't care to injure any fish that might be swimming pass the deep end.
The water was refreshingly cool, and was immediately greeted by a curious school of small fish hanging out by the ladder. I floated my way towards the plastic island buoy in the middle. Oh boy, *big* fish. The area was cordoned off with nets and buoys further out at sea. Good idea. The species within the net grounds were friendly enough. It would seem they were harboured here for tourists to feed and get fat.. (probably sold to the markets later..) The biggest fish was just over a foot-long.
For a couple of minutes, the few of us who got into the waters first had encountered a couple of schools. I'm no fish expert but I think most were of the edible species. After everyone got into the area, the fish seemed to disappear for a while. Not a moment later, they seemed to be in a frenzy. Ohh.. lunchtime for the fish. Slices of bread crust were liberally thrown in by someone on the top of the jetty. Fish, human and breadcrumbs mixed in a strange sea soup.
I plucked a few pieces of bread from the surface and fed the fish by hand. Most seem to be debating between hunger and fear of us. They would dart in to take quick nips of what they can and speed off again. Oh man, that was cool.. I didn't know fish ate bread with such gusto. I tried to touch those that were nipping food off my hands. Cold and slippery. Some in their feeding frenzy were nipping at my fingers but it would seem they have no teeth.. I let out a grin.. *Bad move.*
Seawater gushed into my goggles. I choked as the salt-concentrated liquid seeped into my nasal passage. Hot DANG! The salt stung; I couldn't breathe and was too far away from the buoy. I floundered a bit and scared off the fish. I made my way to the buoy and got the guys on deck to hoist me up. More concerned looks as I coughed out the salty stuff. "I was smiling at the fish.." I think it was Hanting who amusedly clucked, "Didn't you hear what that guy said? Don't smile at the fish, keep a serious face.. or you'll get water in."
Oh.. heck.. I turned away and spat out the rest of my chagrined ignorance. Dang! the salt so leaves the nasal passage smarting. I've snorkelled before, but never had such a fun time with the fish to smile at them...
Tough lesson learnt: I will never smile at a pretty fish again underwater.
Hanging out on the island buoy with a couple of others, peeling pieces of wet bread, and skimming them across the water surface brought the fish up for food. (By the way, the bread crust was really fragrant.) I saw some really pretty rainbow fish. They really were an artistic riot of green, lavender, pink, magenta, cyan, yellow. And the only thing I could think of was, no camera to take them fish. :(
A final dive and we were off to another coral area. We hosed off the salt with fresh water and got onto the boats. Lunchtime for humans. Nasi lemak with chicken, sausage, egg.. There was an extra packet of food on our boat. It was then that I first noticed we had a boat captain of sorts. His name: Ah Foo.. (I only found out much later that he was the chef.)
He offered the extra packet around, gave the chicken out, and when nobody wanted the rest, he simply dumped it, fried egg and all into the sea.. (minus the polystyrene box, of course..) and the fish came after the food with equal gusto, nipping at the floating egg. Those fish will be headed for a major artery clog.
The next dive site was barricaded only by a nearby rock formation that buffeted the bigger waves from the open sea. The schools here were smaller, the coral features look more extensive. I passed up the opportunity on this dive, staying on board for some casual photography of the others snorkelling.
A day of content and contents. I could get used to a life at sea. On our way back, the sea was much calmer, the ride smoother. Some fell asleep, others shared jokes at the boat's bow. Dave, Rick, and Ein hanging out at the stern. I stood at the bow for a good part of our journey back to the resort, mesmerized by the swirling emerald waters as the boat forged ahead. Occasionally, I took a few shots. A Malay boy of no more than 13 years piloted the boat while his elder brother napped.
A commercial light plane landed on the main island's hidden runway. A military copter dived in low above our boats. A huge red jellyfish of perhaps 2 feet in diameter floated by starboard side.
5pm.. Arrival. Already, they had a volleyball match in tow at 5.30pm.. Poh Ling and Huishan joined in while Bernardee and I opted for sleep. Bernardee was substantially sunburnt. Dinner at 8pm. It was a personal struggle to decide between more sleep and food. Finally, I straggled out with everyone else at 8.30pm.. Dinner was already in progress..
9.30pm.. Bernardee, Poh Ling, Huishan and I started on the cards, too lazy to return to our room after dinner. For the first time in 2 days, we got acquainted with Raymond at the resort, who was quite possibly a champion at "Tai Di". Hey, the man had strategies for winning.. we common-card-folk just want to get rid of our cards.
Stargazing would ensue for the whole night till dawn. This being the final night, few were vowing to stay awake till dawn. They brought out the guitar and were soon on karaoke-high. Others were playing cards by the moonlight. As always, a dose of ghost stories too.. (Apparently, Rooms 13, 14, 15, 16.. have had night visitations a-knocking on their doors.) Soon, a set of mind-games kept everyone awake and guessing.
By 4am, only a handful of us were left on the jetty: Willie, Dexing, Kumar, Poh Ling, Sabrina, Huiling, and myself.
5am.. We had gravitated to the balcony at the main reception as the night cooled. They were still binocular-hunting as Taurus and Orion drew higher. Saturn, Jupiter, Venus. I drew a chair right up front of the balcony, the front row audience.
"What's that bright star over there by the edge of the coconut tree?" Willie pointed excitedly as everyone else checked maps and aimed binoculars. "Capella.." I replied..
In the few seconds of silence that ensued, I watched as the sky slowly lightened blue. This was one of the most enthusiastic groups ever. After a long day of activities, they were still awake. "It's so nice out here, so beautiful, y'think?" I thought out loud. Silence. I thought they were all in silent awe. I turned back to look at them. Only Dexing looked at me and grinned.. the rest were fast asleep in their chairs. I grinned. Oh well.. they did survive till dawn.. and they well deserved their sleep.
Fish & Star-Chips (Tioman, Malaysia)
DAY 3 - 05 September, Wednesday.
The last day.. I so couldn't wake up..
We checked out by 11am. A couple of parting shots from the balcony. The journey home was even more fun than the journey there, if only because, I now know a number of them. :)
7pm.. Singapore.. Group dinner at Jurong Point. Home was not too far away..Thanks, everyone! I can't wait for the next island hop.
By Lin . 7th September 2001, Friday.
